INTERNI. The Magazine of Interiors and Contemporary Design

Orto Botanico di Brera

Data Pubblicazione: 1 April 2015
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a BE OPEN Foundation Project

The GARDEN of Wonders. A Journey through Scents

Orto Botanico di Brera
Via Fratelli Gabba 10 – Via Brera 28 Milano
from 13 to 19 April open from 10.00 to 23.00
from 20 April to 24 May from 10.00 to 22.00

Perfume, a precious, antique product, meets the creative force of design in an itinerary that combines innovation and craftsmanship

Nothing is better than a garden to tell a story and to make an olfactory path like the one presented by BE OPEN: perfumes that host other perfumes, from nature to alchemy, the original to the extraordinary.

In an exceptional green treasure chest like the garden of the ORTO BOTANICO DI MILANO along an itinerary that involves and develops the design of the garden itself, a narrative of history, chemistry and lifestyle based on fragrances, from the factual to the visionary, from science to design. Designers interpret eight perfumes, releasing their potential after years of slumber.

The installation is composed of simple garden elements that thanks to unusual finishes transform normal greenhouses into precious objects containing worlds that represent the various scents. The gardens of Brera become like the enchanted forest in the painting by Alberto Savinio, where multicolored toys are transformed into scented ingots to penetrate, in which to get lost.

Ferruccio Laviani

 

 

The Garden of Wonders

Design meets the world of perfume at the botanical garden, in ten golden pavilions that [...]

A Journey Through Scents Pavilion

From Egypt the narrative shifts through the mosques of Islam to the Renaissance and the [...]

The Houses of Wonders

A section dedicated to eight lost brands which have been assigned to eight world-renowned designers [...]

Waldes Et Spol Pavilion – Scent and Psyche

Tord Boontje Interprets the brand Waldes Et Spol in the pavilion Scent and Psyche, evoking [...]

Bertelli Pavilion – Pioggia Botanica

Pioggia Botanica is the title of the installation created by Emiliano Salci and Britt Moran [...]

Biette Pavilion – Veredas

Fernando and Humberto Campana For the brand Biette they have created the installation Veredas, inspired [...]

Guyla Pavilion – Fragrance Particles

Front The Swedish design trio has created the Fragrance Particles pavilion to revive the brand [...]

Felix Boissard Pavilion – Kuriopotek

Jaime Hayon The Kuriopotek pavilion is the studio of a mysterious, magical creator of perfumes [...]

Lundborg Pavilion – Lundborg and the laboratory of a nose

Lissoni Associati Lundborg and the laboratory of a “nose” recreates the working environment of an [...]

Bertif Pavilion – Bertif, Timeless Scent

Jean-Marie Massaud The pavilion Bertif, Timeless Scent concentrates on the Eau de Cologne developed in [...]

R.Koehler & Co. Pavilion – Fandango

Nendo The Japanese designer Oki Sato, founder of Nendo, makes a minimal pavilion based on [...]

A Vision in a Box Pavilion

A Vision in a Box Pavilion The Vision in a Box pavilion gathers projects by [...]

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The Garden of Wonders

The Garden of Wonders

The Garden of Wonders. A Journey Through Scents
Via Fratelli Gabba 10 – Via Brera 28 Milano
from 13 to 19 April open from 10.00 to 23.00
from 20 April to 24 May from 10.00 to 22.00

Data Pubblicazione: 2 April 2015

Design meets the world of perfume at the botanical garden, in ten golden pavilions that narrate the past and predict the future of a product of fine craftsmanship

Profume, a product with an artisanal heart and a global profile, is the focus of the exhibition the Garden of Wonders. A Journey through Scents which the international Be Open Foundation has created and produced in the context of Energy for Creativity, at the Orto Botanico di Brera. The exploration conducted by Be Open has to do with the virtuous connections between design and the world of perfume in the wider sense of the term, seen as an entrepreneurial and productive terrain, often composed of small crafts firms.

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For the event, Be Open has identified eight historic luxury fragrance brands that have vanished, assigning them to eight designers and studios, some of the most highly acclaimed on the international scene. As virtual artistic directors, the designers have revised the brand identity and image: Tord Boontje has worked on the brand Ceco Waldes et Spol, Fernando & Humberto Campana on the french brand Biette; the italian brand Bertelli has been reinterpreted by Dimorestudio, while the swedish trio Front has concentrated on the french trademark Guyla; spain’s Jaime Hayon has worked on the english brand Boissard, Piero Lissoni on the american brand Lundborg, Jean-Marie Massaud on Bertif, and finally Nendo has worked on the russian brand R. Koehler & co.

The overall exhibit design is by Ferruccio Laviani, who has created a sort of distributed museum in the greenery of the botanical garden, where golden pavilions produced by Unopiù contain the creations of the designers. “i liked the idea of transforming this place, which is already secret, into a garden of delights,” Ferruccio Laviani says, “a dream, a parallel world one doesn’t expect to find in this historic part of milan. The inspiration for the pavilions came precisely from the idea of the garden,” the designer adds, “but the choice of gold is connected to the concept of luxury. Every greenhouse is a world apart, which the designers have freely interpreted. The world of perfume and that of design seem distant from each other, even opposites: one is physically impalpable, the other three-dimensional; actually they have a lot of similarities, they form a perfect pair.”

Ferruccio Laviani

Ferruccio Laviani

Besides the eight pavilions of the designers, a historic-anthropological section in a special pavilion offers a path through the centuries, in twelve phases, curated by the perfume historian Elena Vosnaki and Gérald Ghislain, a creator of fragrances. Ghislain has invented a fragrance for each historical step, and has also invented a perfume for each of the pavilions of the designers: “with my perfumes i like to tell stories,” he explains, “in this case i have made fragrances retracing the history of the brands, but also interpreting the vision of the designers. My aim is to create perfumes that seduce people: the inspiration is a sensation, a mood.”

The Houses of Wonders pavilion on the history of perfume, curated by Elena Vosnaki and Gérald Ghislain.

The Houses of Wonders pavilion on the history of perfume, curated by Elena Vosnaki and Gérald Ghislain.

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The exhibition concludes with the pavilion A Vision in a Box, presenting stylistic exercises of ten designers who have created original perfume flacons.

Press Meeting of Orto Botanico exhibition 14 April 2015, 17.00; cocktail 19.00 with the designers at Orto Botanico, via Fratelli Gabba 10 / via Brera 28, Milan

Press conference of Orto Botanico exhibition 28 April 2015, 11.00 at Biblioteca Nazionale Braidense, via Brera 28, Milano

Be Open is an international foundation that supports creativity and ideas, based on an initiative of Yelena Baturina. The exhibition at the Botanic Garden is the second part of the project “Made in…” on the relationship between crafts, design and the global market. The overall exhibition design is by Ferruccio Laviani.

Ferruccio Laviani Architect and designer with a studio in Milan, he has collaborated with some of the leading companies of Italian and international design; here he has done the overall exhibition design.

Gérald Ghislain A creator of fragrances, he founded the brand Parfums Histories. His philosophy is to tell stories using perfumes in place of words. He has created the scents found in the pavilions.

Elena Vosnaki A historian, writer and consultant to major perfume brands; she is also a well-known blogger, thanks to her website Perfume Shrine. Curator of the historical pavilion.

Gérald Ghislain

Gérald Ghislain

Elena Vosnaki

Elena Vosnaki

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A Journey Through Scents Pavilion

A Journey Through Scents Pavilion

Olfactory curator Gérald Ghislain
Perfume history curator Elena Vosnaki
Data Pubblicazione:

From Egypt the narrative shifts through the mosques of Islam to the Renaissance and the 1600s, the century of plagues, all the way to the Orientalism that charmed 19th-century Europe and the great lady of fashion, Coco Chanel, in the 20th century. The path concludes with the most coveted essence of our time, the oud (or Agarwood) over which producers do battle, paying outrageous prices.

The pavilion on the history of perfumes and their classification investigates the presence of perfume in human history and the reasons behind the timeless appeal of this product. Curator Elena Vosnaki, a perfume historian, has outlined an itinerary in twelve sections, twelve stops from the time of ancient Egypt to the present, narrating anecdotes, personalities and discoveries that have changed and enriched the history of fragrances.

For each of the sections of the historical itinerary the olfactory curator Gérald Ghislain has created an original scent, while a golden table presents eight essences that represent the eight great families of fragrances (Hesperidic, Aromatic, Floral Fruity, Powdery, Aldehydic, Woody, Chypre, Oriental), for an experiential voyage that is useful to recognize and classify perfumes.

Twelve historical sections and twelve perfumes

2000 BC The Fragrant Pharaohs. Scent Mystery of the Pyramids
Resin, mystique and sweet incense for the dead assuage the gods Anubis and Osiris. The fragrant smoke rises in the air like hands in prayer.

600 AD Abbasid Caliphate, Bagdad. Scent Eternal Beauty Elixir
A patch of rosemary for remembrance, fresh citrus and lush jasmine make the heart grow fonder.

1340 Renaissance Beauty. Scent The Anima in the Kasbah
Musk and exotic leathers on the Silk Road, the dry, warm scent of the caravan flies on the magic carpet.

1630 Protection from the Plague. Scent Eau de Protection
Bitter herbs, camphor, acid and spice, those are the things protecting men who are wise.

1685 On the High Seas. Scent Grey Pearl of the Ocean
Bodies lying down on the beach, their skin melting under the sun, their skin salty with the kiss of the waves.

1800 Imperial Style. Scent Miracle Water
An Italian spring morning when, after a shower of rain, daffodils and orange blossoms release their scent.

1862 Visions of the East. Scent Mille Feuille
Melt-in-the-mouth vanilla surrounds you in comfort, like falling down on a goose down duvet.

1917 Out of the Trenches. Scent Cyprus Forest
The sun through the foliage lights upon trumped undergrowth…fallen leaves, soil and warmth mingle in the air.

1921 Eau Couture. Scent Eau Couture
A whiff of soap, of flowers, of wax, elegant chic of ladies carrying a capitonné clutch.

1956 Golden Age of Perfumery. Scent Good Luck Charm
Lily sings with its high pitched voice, the song of May in the verdant countryside.

1992 Sweet & Naughty. Scent Dangerous Complicity
A Lolita bats her eyelashes and puts her narrow Florentine hands together, thinking impure thoughts.

2015 Eternal Orient. Scent Immortal Wood
The king of fragrance wears his djellaba in gold, studded with cognac diamonds. Bitter and oily whiffs of wood, of resin, of mold, of nuts.

 

Eight olfactory families exemplified by eight perfumes

A useful, easy guide to understand how to perceive fragrances with greater awareness.
The perfumes are creations by Gérald Ghislain.

  • Hesperidic: Refreshing, effervescent, tart, juicy, exhilarating
    scent 1873 Colette
  • Aromatic: herbaceous, rustic, rejuvenating, sinus-clearing
    scent 1828 Jules Vernes
  • Floral Fruity: youthful, succulent, ripe, sweet, exciting
    scent 1804 Georges Sand
  • Powdery: soft, downy, makeup-like, feminine
    scent 1904 Madame Butterfly
  • Aldehydic: soap, wax, citrus, fizzy, dressy
    scent 1831 Norma
  • Woody: austere, sturdy, assertive, tar, bittersweet
    scent 1740 Marquis de Sade
  • Chypre: moss, polished, dramatic, sophisticated, undergrowth, tannins
    scent Noir Pachouli
  • Oriental: Opulent, mystical, velvety, sensuous, vanilla
    scent Ambre 114
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The Houses of Wonders

The Houses of Wonders

Data Pubblicazione:

A section dedicated to eight lost brands which have been assigned to eight world-renowned designers

The reinterpretation of the eight brands has been assigned to eight designers who have rethought their history and characteristics in keeping with personal sensibilities: they have acted as artistic directors of the brands to demonstrate that design can become a strong point for small businesses.

Pavilions

Scent and Psyche project Tord Boontje
Waldes Et Spol Pavilion

Veredas project Fernando and Humberto Campana
Biette Pavilion

Pioggia Botanica project DimoreStudio
Bertelli Pavilion

Fragrance Particles project Front
Guyla Pavilion

Kuriopotek project Jaime Hayon
Felix Boissard Pavilion

Lundborg e il laboratorio di un naso project Lissoni Associati
Lundborg Pavilion

Bertif, Timeless Scent project Jean-Marie Massaud
Bertif Pavilion

Fandango project Nendo
Koehler & Co Pavilion

Perfumes
Gerlain Ghislein

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Waldes Et Spol Pavilion – Scent and Psyche

Waldes Et Spol Pavilion – Scent and Psyche

Tord Boontje
Data Pubblicazione:

Tord Boontje Interprets the brand Waldes Et Spol in the pavilion Scent and Psyche, evoking the atmosphere of Prague at the start of the 1900s, and the studio of Sigmund Freud.

The interpretation of Waldes Et Spol is linked to the Bohemian roots of the brand goingback to the early 1900’s. Prague, the Bohemian capital, was a very exciting cultural city. Modern ideas changed the way the world was perceived. One of the main agents of change was Sigmund Freud’s radical new understanding of the human psychology.

The presentation is a contemporary interpretation of this origin: silent fans gently wave the air through a collection of aromatic plants, creating a subtly scented environment. This deconstructed organic system to create scent is inspired by the early 20th century’s radical new way of looking at beauty as something built up of many complex influences like the human psyche.

As in Sigmund Freud’s office, in the pavilion there is a sofa and an armchair (partially exposed to show the wooden construction), alongside rugs with symbolic patterns. Tables are balanced by heavy loads of unpolished marble. The fans are a hybrid between a machine and natural leaf-like shapes. Plant pots and vases are exquisitely delicate, as if these were flacons made by a perfumery.

Tord Boontje was born in The Netherlands in 1968. His education at the Eindhoven Design Academy, class of 1991, and the Royal College of Art London, graduate of 1994, set the foundation for Studio Tord Boontje. By 2002 the unique Garland light for Habitat was a widely recognised and distributed product and the articulate and beautiful Blossom chandelier for Swarovski was making waves; but it was an installation Happy Ever After created in the Moroso showroom during the 2004 Milan Salone that sent the international media into a frenzy. It established that the Studio’s work draws from a belief that modernism does not mean minimalism, that contemporary does not forsake tradition, and that technology does not abandon people and senses.

Waldes Et Spol The brand was founded in Prague in 1930’s. Waldes Et Spol most famous perfumes were Bon Ami, Mignon, Noblem, Remember Me.

Scent Original beauty

Lying on a light wood sofa, bergamot remembers its childhood in the gardens of Prague where a multitude of violets and jasmines adorn the city. The soft perfume of coriander and oak musk recounts the memories of its bohemian life between Vienna and Paris, where female beauty was being reinvented, under the timeless and amused eye of the Rose.

Tord Boontje

Tord Boontje

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Bertelli Pavilion – Pioggia Botanica

Bertelli Pavilion – Pioggia Botanica

Dimorestudio
Data Pubblicazione:

Pioggia Botanica is the title of the installation created by Emiliano Salci and Britt Moran to interpret the perfumes of Bertelli: inspired by the sensations generated by rain in nature.

The inspiration comes from the idea of recovering elements of memory capable of evoking olfactory sensations. A spell that is broken in nature, and in its breakdown releases refractions, reflections, reminders, quotations of memories.

A past that comes back to life in a reinvented fragrance. The rain washes, distills and gathers in a block of onyx the essences that nature expands.

The materials are backpainted glass, mirrors, brass and alabaster. The colors are black, violet, yellow, green. Deco memories in the signs, finishes and colors. Bright gold and mirrors marked by time immersed in generous nature. Nature bursts in, penetrates and floods memory. Water releases, gathers and prompts aromas. The cathartic rainfall that instills and distills the heart of scents. Essences that rise from memories. The Scent of Rain.

Emiliano Salci and Britt Moran capitalize on their personal work experiences in design, art and fashion, founding Dimorestudio in 2003. From that moment on, every project has been developed in a personal, recognizable way: objects by the Great Masters of design coexist with salvaged items and others made to measure to create and shape a precise atmosphere. A timeless visual and emotional path. Research rich in details that make every project simple, and thus sophisticated, every sign, every proposal, every suggesiton, innovation and citation.

Bertelli

Achille Bertelli began his business in 1888. He started producing a revolutionary medicated patch. Quick was the transition to cosmetics, perfumed soaps, perfumes, powders and creams for the modern woman. Among the most successful fragrances Asso di Cuori and Come tu mi vuoi, that had as testimonial the actress Greta Garbo. In the 1960 the company was sold to Lepetit.

Scent Rain

A thin rain falls on the Botanical Garden, a harmonious space, created by the rulers of the past. A reinvigorating scent of pine and leaves, surrounded by citrus-like notes, evokes Earl Grey tea. A water-based harmony of freesia, covered by lotus petals encircles the building, up to a jasmine which reveals the romanticism of wood and white musk, winking at Milan one last time.

Emiliano Salci and Britt Moran ph. Stefano Galuzzi

Emiliano Salci and Britt Moran ph. Stefano Galuzzi

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Biette Pavilion – Veredas

Biette Pavilion – Veredas

Fernando and Humberto Campana
Data Pubblicazione:

Fernando and Humberto Campana For the brand Biette they have created the installation Veredas, inspired by a marine cave in the Brazilian state of Bahia. The porcelain bottle is also like a sea creature.

For Biette parfum the inspiration came by sea creatures, so Fernando and Humberto Campana designed a porcelaine bottle of perfume in the shape of a marine animal. Then, for the conceptual installation the influence was a cave named ‘Gruta do Veredas’ located in the state of Bahia in Brazil. The shape of the wicker installation they created to host the bottle of perfume reminds of the paths of this cave.

For the packaging they created a black box in cardboard covered in synthetic fur. Fernando Campana said: ‘We’re very happy to be part of this exhibition as we share the goal of rescuing traditions that are disappearing. We were given a historical perfume maker brand and tried to give it a new life and a fresh look thrugh our design universe’.

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Since 1983 the brazilian brothers Campana have been solidly building their career in the field of artistic design, achieving both national and international recognition. Their work incorporates the idea of transformation and reinvention. Giving preciousness to poor, day-to-day or common materials carries not only the creativity in their design but also very Brazilian characteristics – the colors, the mixtures, the creative chaos, the triumph of simple solutions. Based in Sao Paulo, Estudio Campana is constantly investigating new possibilities in furniture making.

Biette

The company was established by four brothers, Georges, Michel, Lionel and Maxime at rue Beausejour, in Nantes, France in 1882. In 1892 Biette was taken over by Alexis Biette. They ceased trading in 1950. They had branches in major cites in Europe, Africa and the USA. Some of their flacons were produced by Baccarat. The bottle of the perfume Narciris was designed by Julien Viard.

Scent Flora and Fauna

The sun shines on Brazilian nature, awakening the senses with the warmth of amber. A cocktail of bergamot and lemon charms in a lively fantasy with notes of violets, in the form of sea animals. You have never felt so good as you are now, surrounded by this beaming nature, cradled by the sweet scents of ylang-ylang, lily of the valley and patchouli

Fernando and Humberto Campana Courtesy of Estudio Campana ph. F. Laszlo

Fernando and Humberto Campana Courtesy of Estudio Campana ph. F. Laszlo

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Guyla Pavilion – Fragrance Particles

Guyla Pavilion – Fragrance Particles

Front
Data Pubblicazione:

Front The Swedish design trio has created the Fragrance Particles pavilion to revive the brand Guyla, through a cupboard covered with vegetation and a luminous installation.

The designers got the inspiration from Guyla´s beautiful bottle from Twenties. The bottle was shaped like a champagne glass, with double glass walls, the fragrance was contained between the two. Its surface was decorated with hand painted floral Art Nouveau designs by Paul Poiret’s company Atelier Martine.

The Front liked the connection between Art Nouveau´s reference to nature, plants and flowers and the botanical garden. This inspired them to make an object decorated by nature: a cupboard with tracery that plants and flowers can climb on, referring to Poiret´s Art Nouveau patterns and his distinctive draped dress designs. The flowers that grow will be the same ones the perfume was made from, so the cupboard will smell like the perfume once did.

The mysteriously double walled bottle inspired us to create a bottle with an unexpected inside, it will be lit up from within. We have also made a light installation in the room made from hundreds of tiny light dots like fireflies that will visualise the ephemerality of scent.

The Swedish group Front was founded in 2003 and is composed of the designers Anna Lindgren, Sofia Lagerkvist and Charlotte von der Lancken, based in Stockholm. Their work springs from discussions, explorations and experiments, with the participation of all from the start of a project to its results. Front designs objects, furnishings and interiors that tell stories to those who observe them, exploring the process of implementation and the conventions of design, while investigating materials. In their work they have at times entrusted part of the process to the intervention of animals, computers or machines.

Guyla

Guyla was established in 1926 at 40 rue de Paris, Epinay-sur-Seine. Guyla’s bottles were in the shape of champagne flutes, decorated with hand painted floral designs by Paul Poiret’s company Atelier Martine. One of the most famus fragrance Divin Narcisse was a floral fragrance with notes of camomile, myrtle, spices, ylang-ylang, jasmine, patchouli, vetiver, amber and sandalwood. Guyla was a very short lived company and not much info is to be found on them.

Scent New Nature

Art and nature are quiet, challenge each other, merge and exalt one another in a floral bond. Skilful, restrained brush strokes trace the colours and the gleam of the rose, the jasmine and the orange-flowers. Real, intense plants release scents of orange and bergamot, highlighting the virtuosity of art nouveau. The narcissus emerges from this harmony, in a glow of light that enhances its beauty, made warmer and quivering by amber.

Front

Front

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Felix Boissard Pavilion – Kuriopotek

Felix Boissard Pavilion – Kuriopotek

Jaime Hayon
Data Pubblicazione:

Jaime Hayon The Kuriopotek pavilion is the studio of a mysterious, magical creator of perfumes imagined by the Spanish designer for the brand Felix Boissard.

Jaime Hayon approaches the forgotten fragrance brand Felix Boissard by looking through the lens of an old-time alchemist, bringing the brand into the present through a Lab of Fantasy.

A whimsical scent lab is anchored by a grand table and a cabinet of curiosity, filled with a melange of vessels, lamps, perfume bottles, and other accoutrement of a wizard’s workspace, each surreal element expertly crafted with impeccable technique.

Noble materials such as glass, ceramic, and leather, are mixed in an explosion of forms. By day it’s a glimmering mix of materiality and wonder, and by night, it lights up into a sparkling dream world.

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Jaime Hayon is a spanish artistdesigner. After studying industrial design in Madrid and Paris he joined Fabrica – the Benetton-funded design and communication academy in Italy- in 1997 where he directed the design department until 2003. Hayon set up his own studio practice in 2000 and dedicated himself fully to his personal projects from 2003 onward. Hayon’s esteem and knowledge of artisan skills and his inherent creativity has allowed him to push the boundaries of many mediums and functions.

Felix Boissard, a British-French company, was established around 1900 by John-Ernest Jewel, (a probable predecessor in France was Pennes Fils et Broissard). The most famous perfumes were Silva (1913) and Madelon (1919)

Scent Between day and night

The enigmatic fragrances of ginger and iris drift from the alchemist’s workshop window. Inspired by his muse, he blends white musk, orange and bergamot by following mysterious algebraic combinations, enshrining them in his extraordinarily shaped and variegated vessels. Warmed by blond wood, aldehyde decants its fresh and white notes one by one. A perfume that’s sparkling by day and mysterious by night… A magical alchemy!

Jaime Hayon

Jaime Hayon

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Lundborg Pavilion – Lundborg and the laboratory of a nose

Lundborg Pavilion – Lundborg and the laboratory of a nose

Lissoni Associati
Data Pubblicazione:

Lissoni Associati Lundborg and the laboratory of a “nose” recreates the working environment of an alchemist who plays with scents, like John Marlie Lundborg, creator of the brand.

Lundborg is a historic American name in parfumerie, active since 1860, the year in which its founder John Marlie Lundborg created Violette Flor. From then on, Lundborg established a true laboratory for the creation of perfumes, based in New York.

The interpretation by Piero Lissoni in a contemporary key is an installation composed of two light, large bookcases, backlit by walls of white light, where the perfume bottle becomes the protagonist. It evokes the design of one of the historic bottles, interpreted in four graphic variations as the bottles were produced at the time. The installation contains about 700 flacons, specially made for the event.

At the center of the space, Piero Lissoni has designed a parfumerie laboratory, creating a sculpture of vials, alembics, vases of black orchids, hanging plants and chemistry tubes of large size, evoking the history of the brand and the craft of the creator of fine scents.

Piero Lissoni architect, designer and art director, after graduating in architecture from the Politecnico di Milano, started out on his career as designer and art director. Together with Nicoletta Canesi he opened the Lissoni Associati studio in 1986 in Milan. 1996 saw the creation of Graph.x, a company dedicated to the development of graphics projects. The work of the studio, with a staff of over 60 people, involves architecture and interiors, industrial and graphic design. Projects include hotels, resorts, showrooms, shops, headquarters, trade fair stands, private houses, and yachts, from furnishing to lighting, from art direction to corporate identity, from catalogues to packaging.

Lundborg was established in 1850 in New York. Its founder was a Swede who emigrated to the United States, John Marlie Lundborg. In 1872 he had sold a part of the company to Richard D. Young, and by 1873, the firm was reorganized as Young, Ladd & Coffin. Lundborg retired in 1880.

Scent The New Violet City

A spectacular summer day in the Big Apple. The atmosphere is overfilled with the perfume of the iris and the rose, wafting from Central Park which dominates emblematic. As we pass through Times Square, we are lulled by the sweet breeze from New York harbour, rich in bergamot and rice powder fragrances. We push the workshop door and discover this energising, talc powder perfume, with the quivering, sweet notes of violets.

Lissoni Associati

Lissoni Associati

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Bertif Pavilion – Bertif, Timeless Scent

Bertif Pavilion – Bertif, Timeless Scent

Jean-Marie Massaud
Data Pubblicazione:

Jean-Marie Massaud The pavilion Bertif, Timeless Scent concentrates on the Eau de Cologne developed in the 1800s by the Parisian pharmacist Bertif, and the flacons to contain it, unique pieces in marble, crystal and wood.  

Paris during the 19th century: the name of a talented apothecary is floating around like a whispered rumour: Bertif. Far from fleeting trends and easy fragrances flourishing in department stores, he patiently works in his lab, to develop formulas focusing on well-being and harmony.

Combining rare natural components, carefully selected and extracted in the best conditions, he creates one singular Eau de Cologne. Not a seduction-based perfume but a scented water offering hygiene and well-being for everyday use, fitting like a second skin. Today the ambition is to rediscover the alchemy of Bertif by placing the elixir at the centre of our creation. Therein lies the value of the Bertif’s essence, in this precious fluid. There is no need of artifice.

For this fragrance to become your perfume, Bertif gives you the choice of the wrapping. A high-end object made of precious wood, of fine marble, of crafted crystal or of the unique material specially chosen by you. An object of a lasting nature embodying your personality. The quality requirement is the Bertif’s ambition.

Jean-Marie Massaud with a degree in 1990 at the Ensci-Les Ateliers design institute in Paris, has worked on a wide range of projects, from architecture to objects: from one-offs to mass products, large settings to small contexts.

Bertif launched a range of fragrances in Paris in 1910. Very few information are available about this brand.

Scent The elixir of wellness

Very complex and very complete, the first notes of this perfume are acidulated by lemon, bergamot and bubbly grapefruit. They prepare the skin to the sweetness of mango. Surrounded by the intoxicating freesia, the elixir reveals all of its soothing virtues with no other superfluous artifice. A moving sensory pathway where the accords of musk and the harmony of the vanilla notes create a unique feeling of wellness, like a second skin.

Jean-Marie Massaud

Jean-Marie Massaud

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R.Koehler & Co. Pavilion – Fandango

R.Koehler & Co. Pavilion – Fandango

Nendo
Data Pubblicazione:

Nendo The Japanese designer Oki Sato, founder of Nendo, makes a minimal pavilion based on the profile of the bottle of Fandango, the most famous fragrance of the Russian brand Koehler & Co.

Nendo is asked to undertake the perfume named Fandango by R.Koehler & CO, which gained popularity in Russia in the 19th century. However apart from the image of the perfume bottle, hardly any information on neither the fragrance nor the background to the product was available.

So we decided to determine the outline of the perfume bottle and express its silhouette with the tube inside. The tubes come in two types, one is a gradation of cold colours and the other is a gradation of warm colours.

The perfume bottles were respectively named Fandango -12.3 ºC and Fandango +23.1 ºC, to suggest the average temperatures of the winters and summers in Moscow where R.Koehler & CO used to be. These two colours of the temperatures also represent the cool, fresh scent of the winters and the warm, passionate scent of the summers.

Nendo, chief designer and founder of Nendo, Oki Sato is born in 1977 in Toronto, Canada. He received the Master in Architecture from Waseda University, Tokyo, in 2002 and established design studio Nendo in the same year. He’s been chosen by Newsweek magazine as one of “The 100 Most Respected Japanese” and won many major awards including Designer of the Year from Wallpaper magazine, Elle Deco magazine, Maison & Objet Paris and Guest of Honor from Stockholm Furniture & Light Fair. Oki Sato is a lecturer for Waseda University since 2012.

Koehler & Co.

Koehler&Co. was founded in 1862 for the production of beverages and candy essences. In 1864, Roman Koehler was the initiator of ethanol production in Russia, which he used in the manufacture of perfumes and pharmaceuticals. The company had 17 stores in Moscow, 4 in St. Petersburg, as well as shops in Saratov, Kiev, Odessa, Vladivostok. The most famous fragrances of Koehler’s factory was the perfume Fandango, colognes Flora and Sweet.

Scent A perfume of ice and fire

Feel surrounded by the forces of nature and by the contrast between patchouli and leather. Enthralled by the mystery of the fresh scent coming from Moskva’s wintry water, let the orange and jasmine fragrances take you to the heart of the Russian capital city. The fragrances of incense and tobacco surround you, supported by the early sunbeams where the rose uncovers its dress, creating a multitude of sensations. A ballad made up of the acidulous notes of bergamot and tangerine, which penetrate the Slavic soul, where fervent passions and icy looks merge.

Nendo

Nendo

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A Vision in a Box Pavilion

A Vision in a Box Pavilion

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A Vision in a Box Pavilion

The Vision in a Box pavilion gathers projects by ten designers, asked to imagine the bottle for a perfume of the future

Werner Asslinger, Coral: multiplied hexagon modules radial composed to a pine cone like shape and a smaller second one for the flacons cap create together a semi translucent geometrical structure related to nature.

Analogia Project, Spiny: precious content deserves to be defended; sharp thorns grow on the surface to protect the hidden treasure.

Philippe Bestenheider, Volute: a parallelepiped of glass with a continuous satin surface. The effect evokes fragrance that expands into space, like the spiraling smoke of incense.

Gamfratesi, Euterpe: based on the idea of making perfume tangible through association with sound. Euterpe was the muse of lyric poetry. The flacon has a silver pendant in the hollow lower part, which makes sound every time the perfume is used.

LucidiPevere, Float: a bubble of perfume enclosed in a block of poured glass, whose thick, irregular walls conserve the fragrance, as if suspended in space and time.

Karim Mekhtigian, Crystal Ball: flacons inspired by the theme of gravity, as opposed to the volatile nature of scent; the notes of a future perfume will free memories deeply rooted in the mind.

Mist-o, Voyage: a bottle whose organic form, with a bird perched on it, communicates a sense of freshness and good cheer. A smile for a ritual, that of applying perfume, to make it playful and light.

Ludovica+Roberto Palomba, Ray Moore: just as imprisoned water digs in search of freedom, to the flacon with its pure geometric form is excavated by the force of the perfume. The name is a combination of Ray Eames and Henry Moore.

Thukral & Tagra, Submarine: the concept behind this flacon with its undersea form is the expression of submerged desires and emotions. The object rises to a wider level that includes daydreams and imagination.

Victor Vasilev, Srebro: in the Slavic language the term means silver, the material with which the flacon is made; a lasting object that contains a refillable bottle; the volumes are simple; the spray pump is the element that communicates the function.

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