Growing in the city to implement closed-cycle systems, overcoming the romantic idea of ​​the natural link between man and the environment

From the amendments of the Commission for Agriculture and Rural Development of the European Parliament to the Cop28 of 2023, in which Italy was the first to place a veto on synthetic food, it seems that public institutions are led to preserve the bond that over the centuries has united land and man, work and food.

However, the acceleration of climate change and the global need to produce more food using fewer resources present traditional agriculture with a difficult challenge, in which synthetic biotechnologies and cultivation systems alternatives and soilless could instead offer multiple solutions.

The very nature of agriculture is artificial

Probably, upstream of the regulations on synthetic food, we should reflect on how much agriculture itself is the result of a long and continuous process of artificialization of the territory and its crops.

What is believed to be more "healthy and natural", because it is cultivated by the farmer, is nothing other than a hybrid product, the result of a selection made by seed companies which, over time , have synthesized those seeds that are more resistant and suitable for automated cultivation processes. Agriculture has always been an artificial world.

Holland at the forefront of soilless cultivation

The Netherlands is one of the most cutting-edge countries in the research and application of so-calledsoilless cultivation – aquaponics, aeroponics and hydroponics – or intensive cultivation techniques in special greenhouses, in which the plants have no roots in the soil and the water cycle is closed and continuous.

With broad application: consider that the Netherlands is the main tomato producer in Europe (and without gangmastering).

The vertical greenhouses in Roeselare

The architects vanBergen Kolpa e Meta Architectuurbureau, commissioned by the Flemish Research Institute for Agriculture and Horticulture, Inagro and Reo Veiling, have recently Agrotopia, the research center for urban horticulture in Roeselare, was created.

It is the largest double-height steel greenhouse, located on the roof of a concrete structure.The 9,500 square meters for the vertical cultivation of fruit and leafy vegetables are open to the general public through educational tours .

The crops are irrigated using rainwater stored from the roof, the runoff from which is recycled and reused. Instead, excess heat from the district heating network of the neighboring waste incinerator is used for heating.

Agrotopia is in circular symbiosis with the city, exploits the residual urban space and combines architecture and agriculture, providing consumers of agricultural products with a deeper understanding of greenhouse horticulture.

The Vertical Farm in Siena

The sustainable perspective of soilless agriculture is also timidly taking root in Italy. The engineer Matteo Benvenuti founded Vertical Farm Italia in 2015 to design, develop and coordinate self-sufficient public and private vertical garden projects.

Recently, in the historic center of Torrita di Siena, Benvenuti recovered an anti-aircraft tunnel, transforming it into a 50 square meter vegetable garden.

The vertically developed cultivation area occupies only 6 square meters in which 530 leafy vegetables and 24 types of fruit have been planted. The municipal canteen benefits from the harvest, distributing the products even to those in difficulty.

Aside from changing jerry cans or harvesting vegetables, management of growing facilities can be conducted remotely.

The aquaponic farm in Eindhoven

Also directly involving the community is Phood Farm of Eindhoven, a indoor aquaponic farm and business-to-consumer (B2C), whose structure combines with the 15 thousand square meter permaculture farm to satisfy the weekly need for fresh vegetables of 150 families.

Permaculture is a regenerative method in which plants live in a relationship of mutual sustenance and which creates resilient food systems, capable of better addressing environmental challenges.

Phood Farm is a hyperlocal company, inserted in the urban context, with community farmers and social reintegration programs.

Coffee grounds mushrooms in Rotterdam

Soilless cultivation techniques involve research that implements recycling and circular economy processes.

This is the case of Rotterzwam of Rotterdam, a B Corp company awarded with the Vegan Awards 2022, which grows mushrooms from post-consumer coffee grounds, creating a circular economy.

Thecoffee grounds are saved from waste incineration, transformed into a substrate for mushroom growth and finally delivered to farmers who use them as a soil improver.

In eight refrigerated containers, 6-7 thousand kilograms of coffee grounds are converted into 1200-1400 kilos of cardoncelli mushrooms every month.

Mushrooms grown in the kitchen

The New York-based Good Growing brand instead offers to grow mushrooms directly in your own kitchen. Gus is a breathable ceramic planter cultivation device which, due to its ability to maintain humidity and regulate temperature, can facilitate the growth of mushrooms starting from the mycelium.

The proteins are not from intensive farming

The frontiers of synthetic food are pushing ever further both in the production of nutritional components such as proteins not from intensive farming, and because they show food production without the use of soil and in extreme climatic conditions.

Landless Foods by bio-designer Malu Lücking

There are numerous research projects such as that of the bio-designer Malu Lücking, based in London, who, with the Landless Food project in collaboration with the Belgian research institute Ilvo (Flanders Research Institute for Agriculture, Fisheries and Food), carries out a projection to 2050 on food based on laboratory microalgae, aimed at recreating an agro-biodiversity that we are losing together with new families of flavours.

Amino Feast by Arkeon

The Amino Feast performance project, by Magdalena Weiss and studio z00 in collaboration with Arkeon, proposed the consumption of foods based on alternative and synthetic protein sources in a scenario of typical Viennese dishes.

Insect-based protein bars

Despite recent regulatory barriers at European level, the alternative protein industry is growing rapidly. See start-ups like Zirp Insects, which produces insect-based protein bars, or Revo Foods, using 3D printed salmon in response to environmental impact of industrially produced meat and fish.

The acceptance of food synthesized in the laboratory is not an easy undertaking, however many countries are opening up to these frontiers.

Singapore's Solar Foods

One is Singapore, where the Singapore Food Agency (SFA) has approved the sale from 2024 of food products containing the synthetic protein Solein, produced by Solar Foods.

Solein is a protein-rich microbial powder that contains essential amino acids. It can be taken as a replacement for existing proteins in dairy products and meats, snacks and drinks, noodles and pasta.

It is produced using a laboratory bioprocess, similar to winemaking, in which microbes, fed with carbon dioxide, hydrogen and oxygen, create a type of fermentation of small quantities of nutrients.

Solein is composed of 65-70% protein, 5-8% fat, 10-15% dietary fiber and 3-5% mineral nutrients. It is a food that uses minimal resources, without soil, and can be synthesized from deserts to arctic regions and, potentially, even in space.

On the cover: With the Landless Food project, the bio-designer Malu Lückingon creates a projection on the food we will consume in 2050, based on laboratory microalgae, aimed at recovering and recreating an agro-biodiversity that we are gradually losing (photo , Marcello Orlando).