Design as an alternative to the thought of being condemned: 4 small but significant stories of pragmatic projects to promote re-use, recycling and social sustainability

Every generation grows up with monsters on the horizon. The last two, Millennials and GenZ respectively, have been hit by the climate monster. Unlike the atomic bomb or the global war that Generation X experienced, it is one of those monsters that you can try to fight. And that is what the two designers and the two companies (founded by designers) we talk about in this article are doing with very pragmatic and very small projects

These are small interventions, ideas that seem almost nothing compared to the gravity of the problem. But in the absence of global political choices, the climate crisis is fought like this, blow by blow, by changing tiny habits, finding quieter and lighter solutions, broadening the horizons of materials and, above all, fighting the feeling of impotence. Here: one of the qualities of design is that it is an alternative to the thought of being condemned.

Movo: don't throw away that bag!

The full name is Movopack, or Movo for friends. A brand that, faced with the exponential increase in online sales and the resulting shipments, transforms logistics into a sustainable service. That is: Movopack has created reusable packaging and the related return-to-sender service.

Here's how it works: Movo provides recycled polypropylene envelopes and boxes that hide a prepaid label for mailing. The recipient simply slides the label out of the hidden pocket, folds the envelope or box as instructed on the Movo website, and pops the whole thing into a mailbox.

There is something romantic about receiving a package at home, we know. It is a 19th-century memory. Movo takes the mood to its limits: it invites you to fold the envelope like our grandmothers did, who didn't throw anything away and were much more sustainable, and to post it.

To avoid misunderstandings with the younger ones, who often wonder what those red boxes along the city streets are, on the site you can find a map to identify the letterbox closest to you.

A very organic approach to the project, which goes into detail to resolve critical issues, in Movo's idea. And it is a typically "young" approach, which distinguishes a different way of being a designer.

First of all, the intelligence of founding a company: inventing an envelope would have been too small a step. Then the simplicity that is the basis of the return process: prepaid label, pocket to hide it when not needed and make it appear when needed.

Instructions for folding the packaging, the possibility of returning the products to the supplier, and beautiful customizations of envelopes and packages. And then there is honesty: Movo declares transparently that the envelopes are reusable up to twenty times. Then they are recycled. It is not THE solution, but it is a step forward.

Endelea, a project for an ethical fashion brand

Endelea in Swahili means “to move forward without giving up in the face of difficulties”. Many Swahili words translate a complex and motivated action, the kind of action useful in times of crisis. Francesca De Gottardo chose this word as the name for her business. She is a fashion designer with a background in archaeology.

How design is sometimes a sudden illumination is the subject of another story. De Gottardo founded the ethical fashion brand, between Tanzania and Italy, in 2018 with a self-produced and self-financed collection. The goal is to work with local fabrics and local artisans on a fashion line suitable for the Western market.

The company grows rapidly, also thanks to the incubation in 2020 within the B4i program of Bocconi University. In the meantime, collaborations begin with the University of Dar Es Salaam, where the first course in fashion design is established shortly thereafter. And the visit to the Endelea Instagram account and website becomes a regular appointment for many women looking for original garments produced on the other side of the world but in a transparent and fair way.

Francesca De Gottardo really wants to work in a sustainable way, from every point of view.

A decision that means making the right choices at every moment of the business process, from the choice of raw materials to respect for the production and identity culture of Tanzanians. Endelea does not limit itself to describing the products, but rather explains every step, every choice, however complex and difficult to communicate. For Endelea, he chooses the B Corp path and carries out research on the cultural connections expressed by African prints and dyes.

It puts everything into numbers and thus demonstrates that transparency is an engine of exceptional improvement: 3% of the budget is reinvested in local projects, 116% the difference between the salary guaranteed by Endelea and the average Tanzanian salary, 5 years the duration of the partnership with the local university, 0% the salary difference between men and women, 360 kilos of waste fabric recovered, 45% certified sustainable suppliers. Annual reports on environmental, social and human sustainability are published on the brand's channels.

And then comes the decision to close. entrepreneurial sustainability supported by the will and planning ability of a person and his team are still not enough for an ethical fashion business.

“The problem was, obviously, economic. But it has roots in many systemic factors. The requests that allow access to government funds are unsuitable for an ethical business that lives in an economic system substantially alien to traditional entrepreneurial culture. In addition, the crisis in the fashion market has manifested itself”. Finally, there is a cultural issue.

“A fairly produced garment has a completely different cost and revenue from the traditional one based on the labor of underpaid and unprotected workers. We are all aware of this. But we are not yet ready to pay the right price for a product made respecting the dignity of local micro and macro economies”.

GoodWaste: local, targeted, real recovery

A first level graduate in Design at LABA in Brescia, she obtained a second level degree in Product Design at the Royal College of Art, in London, where she lives.

Ambra Dentella is co-founder of GoodWaste, a studio that designs the transformation of waste materials into valuable objects and spaces. A degree from LABA in Brescia and a degree in product design at the Royal College of Art in London, she dedicates herself to pursuing circular economy objectives in a pragmatic and meticulous way.

It is one thing to design a process that improves the environmental performance of a product. It is another to work stubbornly on the recovery of what is unanimously considered waste material. For example, the waste from the London megastore Selfridges, recovered using semi-finished products for internal use and surplus materials to make two models of table lamps, candles, vases.

A small action. But beautiful. The design work of GoodWaste does not limit itself to intercepting waste, but makes it into something beautiful, marketable. This too is a small novelty, but important. Because often recovery and reuse coincide with something that denies the aesthetic experience.

Which by definition must be surprising, pleasing to the senses, astonishing. Then there are the social as well as environmental aspects: the pedagogical value of these practices is revealed in fact in the custom of co-designing with local communities, to build models of impact reduction.