Interni's summer 2023 special returns to the seashore, that sea so close to the mountains, which smells of basil and vineyards, stretched like a crescent from Tuscany to France: Luca Bochicchio has selected for us seven special places in Liguria, connected to the world of art, architecture and craftsmanship.
Who is Luca Bochicchio, our guide to Liguria
Art historian, critic and curator, since 2022 Luca Bochicchio has been the conservator, curator and manager of the collections and programs of the Modern and Contemporary Sector of Museum of Ceramics of Savona. He teaches History of Contemporary Art at the University of Verona and is scientific director of MuDA - Museo Diffuso Albisola which also includes Casa Museo Jorn.
In the spirit of international ceramics
Wilfredo Lam, the main Cuban artist of the 20th century, is the protagonist of Lam et les Magiciens de la Mer, the exhibition hosted by the Museum of Ceramics of Savona and the MuDA Exhibition Center of Albissola Marina.
Wifredo Lam (Sagua la Grande 1902 - Paris 1982) has a very special place in the history of twentieth-century art. A tireless, almost nomadic traveller, he chose Albissola Marina (SV) as his permanent refuge in the early 1960s, a period in which the town was transformed into an effervescent international artistic laboratory, grafting contemporary art on a centuries-old ceramic tradition, capable of renewing itself in the modern era.
Lam's works on display, between totemism and new primitivisms, dialogue with those of the other protagonists of that fertile season: from Lucio Fontana to Enrico Baj, from Giuseppe Capogrossi to Roberto Crippa, from Asger Jorn to Maria Papa Rostkowska and Eva Sørensen.
In Savona, art and cuisine
Chef Giuseppe Ricchebuono, Michelin Star 2023, leads both the cuisine of the well-known Vescovado restaurant, located in the fifteenth-century rooms of the Bishop's Palace of Noli (SV ), that of Bino, the restaurant attached to the Museum of Ceramics of Savona.
Let's deepen our knowledge of this second reality, precisely because of its proximity to the art world: Bino, in fact, was born in perfect harmony with the philosophy of the museum, where works by foreign artists coexist and merge with local artistic experiences.
At Bino the local cuisine and tradition is skilfully combined with the culture and influences of other countries and the cellar, in constant evolution and subject of great research, it is in line with the gastronomic proposal, with a vast selection of regional labels, but also open to incursions from the old continent as well as from the new world.
Thanks to the thirty-year experience of the starred chef Giuseppe Ricchebuono and the professionalism of the kitchen and dining room brigade, the restaurant has become part of the selection of the Michelin Guide 2022.
Projects in dialogue, in Albissola Marina
A leading figure on the international scene of contemporary architecture, the studio Peluffo & Partners is based in Albissola Marina with two realities, the operational offices and Pozzo Garitta, a laboratory of cultural hospitality, built in that which was the Studio of Lucio Fontana, a choice of genealogical continuity in the Contemporaneity, through the practice and promotion of dialogue between the Arts, Architecture and Thought.
Characteristics of the work of Peluffo & Partners, the firm belief that architecture can change the world, that happiness is the aim of the work of architecture and that every building, whatever its function or client, has a role and a public meaning.
The intersubjectivity between building, city, landscape and man, through the language and physical matter of architecture, is the action that Peluffo & Partners has practiced and practices through projects of public buildings, schools, universities, residences, master plans, recovery of historic buildings, buildings for work, for music, entertainment, congresses, research, commerce and culture. The Pozzo Garitta laboratory will be open by appointment from September.
Wine, oil and conviviality
We move further west, in the province of Imperia, to visit Tenuta Maffone, a young family business that was born from a change of life and embodies the history of a small corner of Liguria.
In Pieve di Teco, in the upper Valle Arroscia, Bruno and Eliana decide to devote themselves to the family vineyards, leaving their respective professions behind. In a small strip of land, squeezed between steep wooded slopes, the scenery is actually more Alpine than agricultural, defined by Mario Soldati as optimum that is, the maximum "for the quality of the grapes and wine".
The vineyards owned by the family are between 60 and 100 years old and the choice is to maintain and cultivate them in the traditional way, without using herbicides and chemical fertilizers.
But Tenuta Maffone is not just a family business, it is also sharing: in fact, in addition to the sales point, it is possible to participate in tastings and engaging picnics in the vineyard.
In Alassio, a welcoming place with more souls
On the very first hill, just five minutes by car from the center of Alassio and the sea, The Fattoria dei Colori is immersed in the tranquility of the greenery and offers a breathtaking view of the bay.
The farm was born from the recovery of an ancient olive grove and from the classification of the shrubs of the Mediterranean maquis and wild herbs, with the aim of making biodiversity known and enhanced of the territory, to stimulate sensitivity towards nature and, in particular, towards herbs.
The agricultural production is accompanied by a welcoming activity, with bed and breakfast, tasting and catering, in various structures available: the manor house, an ancient residence of the 18th century skilfully recovered and restored by the artist Renza Sciutto, the melograno house and the palazzo delle stelle.
The Fattoria dei Colori is also animated by a dynamic cultural activity, with events, art residencies, workshops and courses that integrate different themes.
Ceramics, design and experimentation
Ernesto Canepa opened the Studio Ernan Design, together in Annamaria Pacetti, in 1974 in Albisola Superiore, carrying on the tradition of Ivos Pacino Pacetti, famous artist and ceramist in the 1920s.
For over 45 years, Canepa has been experimenting with materials and techniques, from the oldest to the most modern and sophisticated, convinced that the study of ceramics is a continuous research.
Today, the workshop creates artistic ceramics in accordance with the techniques and traditions of Albisola, single pieces and multiples, as well as modern ceramics made in close collaboration with Italian and foreign artists, architects and designers.
Ernesto Canepa, in addition to having won numerous prizes and awards, is a member of the National Ceramic Council at the Ministry of Industry.
A charming and peaceful break, above the Gulf of Poets
Finally, moving eastward, Eastern Liguria welcomes us with a truly original proposal: Omhom it is not a hotel, nor a simple B&B, but the dream come true of Luca Palmero, a promising Ligurian chef passionate about wines and philosophy.
Like a sort of widespread structure, Omhom consists of two enchanting suites with SPA in the quiet village of Tribiano, a few kilometers from Lerici and the Gulf of Poets.
Every stone of the ancient houses where the suites are located bears witness to the past, every piece of furniture is unique, the result of research by craftsmen and artists. The air you breathe is the romantic and sincere one of Liguria.
In addition to staying at Omhom, it is also possible to book tastings and gourmet dinners prepared by the chef. And the surprises don't end here: in a vision of travel as an important opportunity to meet new things, with 'the other' and convinced that travel is a tool to change the world, Luca Palmero offers those who feel like it the 'sosta suspended', inspired by the Neapolitan tradition of suspended coffee.
The invitation, therefore, is to think of the payment as a gift for the next guest.
"We will start this supply chain - explains the chef - hopefully long, inviting the first guests and offering them a stay, while asking them to think about whether to give the possibility of having a similar experience to subsequent guests, choosing how much to pay for it".